Reviewed: Logan Ann Arbor

 

Logan

115 W.Washington, Ann Arbor

It’s been a little over a year since my last visit to Logan.  There was a time when Logan was my old standby, and as steady as it remained, I think I changed, wanting to explore more and learn more.  I thought Logan had taught me all it could teach about expert pairing of food and wine, complex flavors from simple ingredients, and unprecedented customer service.  What I forgot is that everybody needs a refresher course, a reminder of what really good is.

The customer experience at Logan is like no place else.  The three owners each have a cog in the wheel, one is the maitre de, one is the sommelier, and one is the chef.  If you’ve been there before, chances are you are already on a first name basis with them.  The service staff is very knowledgeable.  It’s obvious that they have spent time with each dish on the menu, and are excited to tell you about it, give opinions, and make recommendations.

Making a sweeping generalization of the food at Logan, I can tell you that I have never had a bad plate there.  Dishes have the artistic component of what I call “foo foo” establishments, yet they are still, at the heart, food.  There’s not a bunch of foams and molecular gastromomy, and there is actually a decent portion size.  They have excellent appetizers (love the asparagus tempura), excellent salads (fennel every time), and a nice rotation of entrees that are not turned over too often…ensuring your favorite sticks around a least a little while.  That being said, there is one menu item that has endured the life of the restaurant, the Thai Scallops.  You really don’t have a choice of entree your first visit, because you HAVE TO get the Thai Scallops.  They are served with a green curry-ish sauce, mustard greens, and mashed potatoes.  Yes, mashed potatoes.  Don’t ask questions, just order it.  It is their signature dish, and probably the best single entree available in Ann Arbor.

On this night, we (party of four co-workers) got the soft-shelled crab special and the pork rillette as appetizers.  Both were very good, but the soft shell was particularly tasty and seemed exceptionally fresh for being in Michigan.  It had a nice crust and amazing sauce that we slopped up with the complimentary homemade biscuits.  I had my usual fennel salad, each peppery, licorice-y piece coated in parmasean, and topped with a parm crisp.  I also stuck my fork into the green papaya salad ordered by two others at the table.  It was very interesting, and reminded me of daikon or turnip.  It was refreshingly dressed with cilantro, lime juice, and olive oil.

My short rib entree was a gorgeous pile of more-than-fork-tender beef.  These are 12-hour ribs, maybe more.  I’m not a huge polenta fan, but it provided a nice creamy contrast to the beef.  They went very well together on the fork.  I also was able to nibble on the Greek leg of lamb, and it was cooked to perfection and served with a surprisingly authentic yogurt sauce.

One member of our party had a meeting to catch, so we cut things short before desert.  However, I must demand that if you haven’t before, you need to order the chocolate truffle, which I have deemed the “chocolate ball of glory.”  Pair it with a raspberry framboise and call it a night.

Despite my countless culinary adventures between visits to Logan, from New York to Las Vegas to Chicago…to new and exciting things I’ve created in my own kitchen, it took returning to Logan to remember just how good they are.  Logan is not just a jewel in the culinary landscape of Ann Arbor, Michigan, but it is a restaurant that could easily stand up…or even excel…in New York or L.A.

I’m just glad they’re here, and not there.